If you recently bought a new TV, there are a number of good reasons to mount it on the wall instead of putting it on a stand. One is that it can make it look more appealing—especially if you have a large set. Another is that a properly mounted set can keep your family safe from TV tip-overs. The good news is that for many people this is a very reasonable DIY project. We’ll walk you through the steps below.
Decide where you want to hang your TV before you go shopping for a mount, because that will affect the type of hardware you choose. You can try a few different positions using painter’s tape to mark off the TV’s dimensions on the wall. It’s easiest to install a mount on a conventional wall of 2x4s and drywall. Mounting on brick or other surfaces can be trickier.
The height of the screen, and the angle from the screen to where you’ll be sitting, affects picture quality. If you were placing your TV on a stand, you’d want the center of the screen to be at eye level when you were seated. But a wall-mounted TV tends to look weird when installed that low.
Instead, try to hang the TV so the bottom of the screen is no higher than eye level when you’re seated, and the top of the screen no higher than eye-level when you’re standing. If you need to install the TV higher, you’ll want to consider a tilting or articulating mount.
Make sure the location gives you easy access to an electrical outlet for power, and that you’ll have adequate storage for any components you’ll be connecting to the TV, such as a cable box, streaming player, or game console.
First, you need to decide what style of TV mount to shop for. (We tried several mounts in various styles, and found them all easy to install and use.) A basic fixed model will simply hold the TV flat against the wall. Models that tilt can compensate if you’re sitting lower than the TV. Some tilting mounts can also swivel. Full-motion, or articulated, mounts can move in any direction, including forward toward the viewer. This is important if you’re hanging the TV at an angle from your seating area.
Once you know what style of mount you’re looking for, make sure any model you’re considering can handle the size and weight of your set. The maximum weight and screen-size specifications will be listed on the TV mount’s box and the company website. Just because two mounts can handle the same size television, don’t assume they are rated for the same weight—that can differ by brand.
You also need to consider the construction of the wall where you plan to hang your TV. Most TV mounts are compatible with traditional wood-stud framing and drywall, but you might need a special mount if you’re hanging your TV on other types of walls, such as plaster, concrete, or brick. Otherwise, you may need some tools or hardware not included in the box.
Once you get the mount home, install the brackets on your TV just to double-check that they fit. Almost all TVs have four mounting holes on the back, arranged in a standard VESA pattern. The name stands for the Video Electronics Standards Association. That means that any TV mount you buy should work, as long as it’s rated for your television’s size.
Once the brackets are attached, we suggest measuring from the bottom of your TV to the bottom of the wall plate. Knowing this distance will help you install the mount so that the TV is at the proper height once it’s on the wall.
We’re going to assume you’re mounting the hardware on a wall with studs and drywall. The first step in the installation is to gather a few tools. These include a stud finder, a level, a drill and appropriately sized drill bits, along with some painter’s tape, and a socket set. A ruler or tape measure can also come in handy.
You’ll want to screw the TV mount into wall studs for the most secure installation. To locate the studs it’s easiest to use a stud finder.
If you don’t have a stud finder, it could be worth buying one—they’re handy devices. Move your stud finder across the wall at the height where you’ll be installing the TV mount until it indicates it has found the edge of a stud. Mark that spot with a pencil or some painter’s tape. Then move the stud finder horizontally to locate the other edge of the first stud. (It will be 1.5 inches farther along.)
Some TV wall mounts get attached to just one stud, but more typically you’ll have a model that requires two studs. (That’s our preference.) If your mount uses two studs, continue sliding the stud finder along the wall, and mark the start and end of the next stud, too. For the most secure attachment, the bolt should be firmly centered in the studs.
If you don’t have a stud finder there are a few carpenter’s tricks to locating a wall stud. (With any of these, confirm the position of each stud by drilling a series of small holes to locate the edges of the studs.) Most walls are built with the studs installed with the center of each 16 inches away from the next one. Start at a corner of a room and then measure along the wall in 16-inch increments to locate the most likely locations of the studs for your installation.
Drywall is attached to studs using either screws or nails, so using a strong magnet to find a screw or nail head should put you near the center of that stud.
Wall trim or baseboards are usually nailed to the studs. You might be able to find these small holes by feeling for dimples, or by running a magnet across the surface to locate the nails. Then, use an upright straightedge or yardstick, plus a vertical level, to mark a location higher on the wall. You can also look for a light switch or power outlet, since these are mounted on the side of a stud. Measure out 3/4 of an inch to find the center of the studs, and then use 16-inch increments to find the likely spots for other studs where you want to hang the TV.
Once you’ve found the studs, it’s time to mark the locations to drill small pilot holes for your mounting screws or lag bolts. The pilot holes will make it easier to drive the bolts into the studs without splintering the wood.
Many mounts come with a template you can use to ensure the proper position for the mounting holes. If you’re using the mount itself as a guide, you’ll probably want a partner to hold it up to the wall. Either way, you should use a level to make sure it’s straight. (Some mounts have a built-in level to help with the task.) Then make marks with a pencil where you’ll be drilling. Again, make sure you’re drilling into the center of each stud.
Make sure the wood or masonry bits you use for the pilot holes have a smaller diameter than the bolts you’ll use to attach the mount, so there’s still enough wood to let the bolts get a strong, secure bite.
Once again, a friend can help make this job a bit easier by holding the mount against the wall, lining up the mount with the pilot holes you’ve drilled. To drive the lag bolts, use a ratcheting socket wrench. The mounts we tested recently all came with either two or four lag bolts, plus washers and anchors in case the lag bolts were going to be used in masonry walls.
Don’t fully tighten the bolts until you make sure that everything will be level once it’s firmly mounted. Then finish driving the bolts all the way in, and once again check to make sure the mount is level.
As tempting as it may be to go it alone, placing the TV onto the wall should be a two-person job: Large TVs can be awkward to hold and tricky to align and secure without help.
Before you attach the TV to the mount, check whether you’ll have access to its ports and inputs. Most newer TVs have inputs on the side of the cabinet, but some models only have them at the rear of the TV. Also, some slim mounts will leave little room between the TV and the wall, so it could be hard to get to HDMI inputs or USB ports once the set is installed. If it’s going to be hard to get to the ports once the TV is on the wall, attach all the cables first.
Next, with your partner, align the mounting brackets on the TV with the wall plate or arm on the wall mount. Most brackets will then get secured with the tightening of a few screws. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, which vary from brand to brand.
Many mounts have leveling screws, which let you make small adjustments to ensure the TV is straight and level after it’s installed. Some models also let the TV slide a bit horizontally to make it easier to center.
A mess of wires or cables can ruin an otherwise clean-looking installation, so you’ll likely want to conceal or camouflage the wires running to the TV. If you’re going to hide HDMI and Ethernet cable wires inside the walls, you may want to consider professional installation (see below) unless you’re knowledgeable about wiring. Audio-video and Ethernet cables that run through walls require a specific rating for fire resistance.
Power cables shouldn’t be routed in a wall, so you might consider having an electrician install a recessed outlet behind where the TV will be installed.
If you don’t want to go to that trouble and expense, most retailers sell cable concealment kits, also called raceways, that let you hide and organize cables without cutting into the wall. These typically have an adhesive backing, so they can stick to the wall without damaging it, with covers that snap shut once the cables are inserted. Many can be painted to match your wall color.